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Cooking

Now that I'm fully settled into my larger apartment with a real kitchen, I find myself cooking more at home.  Living a 5-minute walk from the office also means that I can sometimes go home for lunch, pick up some groceries at Chelsea market and drop the perishables off or do some early prep for a during the week dinner party.  

So beyond roasting a chicken on most sundays and making chicken stock once a month, which I plan to do this weekend with a stewing bird I picked up today at the Greenmarket, I'm trying some more ambitious recipes at home. Last week, Josh and Brett came over for dinner and I tried making Jean-Georges's recipe for braised short ribs.  The recipe includes some Asian ingredients like star anise and lemongrass, and some unexpected choices like asian pear and Reisling for the braising liquid.  The great thing about a braise is that the work is mostly all in the prep, and it can be made several days in advance.  I made mine on Sunday and served it on Tuesday.  The result was sweet and tangy, with the meat falling off the bone.  I like my braised meats a little more savory, but I did appreciate the comfort of warm, stewy meat.  I served it with a few roasted fingerling potatoes and a salad topped with parsley, shallots and lemon zest, inspired by the mini salads Jamie Oliver makes on my new favorite cooking show, Jamie at Home.

My New Favorite Korean Dish

I got together with some old friends from high school last night, and, as happens frequently with this group, we went to Koreatown for some BBQ.  I tend not to eat a lot of Korean food on my own.  I can't cook it, and I usually wait to see my Mom to eat it.  After all, her cooking is so much better than what I can get anywhere in Manhattan.  Still, it's fun to get a group together, drink a couple of OBs and have some KBBQ.  I leave with my hair and clothing smelling like grilled meat and my belly full.

The last two times I've gone for Korean food in K-town, I've gotten a dish called Samgyeopsal.  It is grilled pork belly (picture VERY thick slabs of fatty, unsmoked bacon), served with kimchee, also grilled.  It is hot and rich and fatty and delicious, and the kimchee offers a tangy contrast.  The first time I had it (at Kum Gan San), it was served on a hot cast iron dish, and it had some very cold squares of cold tofu.  Yesterday's dish (at Shilla) we grilled directly at the table, and there was no tofu.  The tofu is a nice touch, as it adds a cooling element to the very hot (but not too spicy) dish.  Regardless, I really enjoyed it both times.  

So this may be my new favorite Korean Restaurant dish (which is different from Korean overall).  Note that it's more like an appetizer kind of thing, rather than a main course.  I recommend not grilling it at the table, because then you don't have to see just how fatty the raw meat is (again, picture VERY thick slabs of fatty bacon), and you can happily eat without having to think about just how bad for you this dish must be. 

Burgers Comfort in Tough Times

My old HS classmate, John Berman, was on Nightline last night talking about how hamburgers can make people feel better during the recession.  His first stop was The Spotted Pig (served by April Bloomfield herself!) where I'm pretty sure we tried the burger for the first time together.  

Although I still think that Houston's has the best burger in NYC, I'm curious about this black label blend burger he reported on.  

Check out the quality journalism here:  ABC News: Hamburger Helper: Is 2009 the Year of the Burger?

Co. Pizzeria

Pizza Margarita - Co. Pizzeria

I was excited by the prospect of an Otto replacement in my new neighborhood of West Chelsea, but I was left feeling disappointed after my dinner with PPP there last night.  While the crust was quite good, softer and chewier than I typically like, it was a little too charred for my taste.  The biggest downer was the sauce, which was too watery and left the pizza a bit soggy.

Above is a picture of the pizza margarita. We also had the Boscaiola, which came with tomato sauce, mushrooms, sausages and red onion.  We also had the escarole salad, which was fine but nothing special, a chicken liver toast which had a lemon glaze on top that left a bitter taste, and some sopressata from the Bronx!  The sopressata was good.

I’m reminding myself that when I first went to Otto, it was a mess.  I’ll go back to Co. and hope that it gets better as it matures, but because Otto was about so much more than just its pizza, I don’t believe I’ve found a replacement.

Looking forward to 2009

2008 was a big year, in that after 13 years, I finally moved out of my apartment at 1 University Place.  The move to West Chelsea is definitely an improvement to my quality of life, with one notable exception:  Otto is no longer my local pizza place (and I'm very far away from my favorite slice place, Pizza Mercato).  

I've really missed otto terribly, as it was my go-to place for pizza, delivery, a late night (or midday) drink, and so much more.

there was one consolation.  I had read in the NY Times dining section before the move that Jim Lahey of Sullivan Bakery was supposed to open a pizza place right nearby on 24th and 9th Ave.  But when I moved, it wasn't here!  What happened?  

Well, apparently it was merely much delayed.  According to Slice, it soft opened yesterday. Read the full report here.  I can't wait to try it, and am so relieved I'll finally have a good pizza option just 2 blocks away once again.

Goodbye 2008

It was a pretty good year for me, even as wall street was melting down, friends & family lost their jobs, and new york started its downward spiral (which I'm sure will continue for some time).

Some places that I ate, but did not blog about were:

Matsugen.  So good, but still not a replacement for Honmura-An, which I still miss terribly.

Matsugen soba w/ uni


The Good Fork, where Christina worked.  Decent. I'd eat here if it were in my neighborhood, but it's too far to ever really go back there.  I liked the dumplings:

The Good Fork Steamed Pork Dumplings

More photos of TGF here

Del Posto.  One of the best meals of the year (ok, so I blogged this one, but it was worth mentioning again).

Del posto - agnolotti

I also ate at Farm in Napa, The Kitchen in Boulder, The Red Cat in my new neighborhood of west chelsea, Prune, Terroir, Klee Brasserie, Dovetail, Bar Boulud and so many other delicious places, including my favorite meal of the year at Momofuku Ko.  Most importantly, I got to eat lovingly prepared food from family and friends, making 2008 another great year for food.

December Eating

It seems like the holidays started a lot earlier this year.  There were all sorts of holiday parties, and, as always, there were 3 Pae birthdays:  Mom's and Christina's on the 10th and Chloe's on the 18th.  All this adds up to me eating and drinking way more than I should during the month of December.  I've never really been on a diet, and I don't plan to start one, but my attendance at the gym will need to pick up in January.
So with the holidays and birthdays and everything, I got to try a couple of new places and return to some old favorites as well. 

To celebrate Mom's and Mia's birthdays, we went to Convivio, in the old L'Impero space.  I was always a fan of the Scott Conant incarnation of this place, so I was curious to see what Michael White had done with it, now that it is truly his place, with a new menu, decor, etc.  I loved the cool blues of the old decor, so the warmer red palate seemed not as interesting to me.  Structurally, though, the place is the same, with the two levels, so the place felt like an old friend with a new haircut.  

The menu had a lot of choices, but they offer a 3-course, fixed price menu for $59, which is a great value.  We ordered some arancini for the table, but they were dense and not particularly flavorful.  On the bright side, my eggplant parmesan was well cooked and tasty.  Still, I was a bit sorry that I was so swayed by the eggplant that I didn't order one of the many offal offerings on the menu, including duck hearts and lambs tongue.  Mom got the lamb's tongue, and it was tasty, as was the testa that Sandra ordered.  

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As my second course, I got another favorite, the Maccheroni alla Carbonara.  Like they do at Lupa, White adds a bit of scallion to the dish, which offers a nice bite and something to cut through the richness of the sauce.  It was good, but not the best carbonara I've ever had.

As my main course, I got the lamb chops, which had a bit of breadcrumb on top.  I was pretty full by this point in the evening, and the lamb was not good enough to make me want to eat it when I wasn't hungry.  But it was solid, and tasty.

Dessert was a Pistachio tart with orange sorbet.  I liked it.  In all, it was a solid, relatively affordable meal with friendly service.  I think both Mom and Dad liked it better than the old L'Impero, but I did not.  This may have been due to my ordering more basic dishes rather than adventurous ones, but I felt like the food was more comforting than challenging.  And that's fine.  I'll probably choose Lupa or similar for the equivalent type of food, but if I ever need a place in that neck of the woods, I'd happily go back to try some other things on the menu, avoiding the fixed price menu and going with the pastas.

You can see all the photos from the meal here.

A few days later, I took the Pronto product team to The John Dory.  I felt a bit guilty about going here, since the prices are quite high, but we had a good year, and I felt the team should be rewarded.  Plus, I wanted to try it!  The room is very narrow and much smaller than I expected, given its huge, heavyweight neighbors, Del Posto and CraftSteak.  Other than the huge, beautiful fishtank up front, the walls are covered with drawings of fish, including on the ceilings.  It felt a little kitschy, but I liked it.  I think it may get old after a while, though.  April Bloomfield was there and cooking (we were seated on the platform portion of the tiny dining area and were able to watch the goings on in the open kitchen).  I got the oyster pan roast with sea urchin butter crostini.  I was warm, and not as heavy as I expected (it's basically oysters in a creamy broth).  The uni crostini was just ok, as it was really more like a spread than pieces of uni.  I would have preferred the latter.  For my main course, I ordered the Dungeness Crab, which was a bit of a messy affair for a work dinner, but it was delicious.  It was a whole crab, with a spicy, black sauce.  It was perhaps a wee bit too salty, but I'd definitely order it again, if I didn't want to try the entire rest of the menu.  This is a place I'll definitely go back to.  It's right in my neighborhood, and has a bar where you can eat.  It is a bit dear in terms of the price point, but I think I can swing it if I make a meal out of a couple of apps, or only order an entree.  It's a welcome addition to West Chelsea.

For Chloe's birthday, we went to her favorite (and family favorite) 15 East.  I've found my tolerance for mediocre sushi to have gone away entirely, so sadly sushi has become more of a special occasion food for me.  15 East did not disappoint, particularly with the special apps of uni soba and an egg custard with uni tucked inside.  

Another highlight of the holiday eating season was Eric's Hannukkah party, where he made potato latkas with smoked salmon (the Gaspe from Russ & Daughter may be my new salmon of choice) and ikura, as well as some braised brisket.  Yum.

I've been eating a lot of spanish tapas lately, as El Quinto Pino has become a regular spot for me.  I also recently tried the new Boqueria in Soho and Txikito, the new Basque-style restaurant opened by Alexandra Raij, the former chef at EQP and Tia Pol.  They are both tasty, though I'm getting a little tired of tapas.  To celebrate the end of the year, I had my last lunch of 2008 at my beloved 'ino.  Truffled egg toast and a chicken liver bruschetta.  What a wonderful way to end the year.

Thanksgiving

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Thanksgiving was by all accounts this year a smashing success.  Thankfully, I didn't have to do much.  I did have some issues with some sweet potatoes that chose to either burn or not brown at all, but they turned out ok in the end.  I guess I wasn't too attached to them, as I didn't take any photos of them (they were even missing from my thanksgiving plate pic).

The bird was probably the best ever in the history of Pae family thanksgivings.  It involved a short brining the day before, then drying out, then blasting at high heat, flipping over, then cooking low and slow the rest of the way.  It was super moist.  Thanks to the guy at Jean-Georges who shared his cooking method with Christina, our Head Chef.  Other stuff she made:
  • Savory palmiers with petso and home made sundried tomatoes 
  • Home made buckwheat blini with US osetra caviar, limited edition, doubled smoked Danish salmon and trout roe, all from Russ & Daughters 
  • Our favorite meatballs, made by my aunt  
  • Beet salad with pine nuts (there was also supposed to be goat cheese, but we forgot to add it) 
  • Chestnut stuffing 
  • Mashed potatoes with buttermilk 
  • Cranberry sauce 
  • Cranberry muffins (made by mom)
  • The sweet potatoes with maple thyme glaze 
  • Sauteed Brussels sprouts 
  • Haricot verts sauteed with ginger and garlic 
  • Pumpkin pie 
  • Lemon tart   
As has been our tradition for a few years now, we drank with it a Turley Zinfandel.  See all the photos here

Thanksgiving Responsibilities

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It always helps to have a real, trained and working chef in the family, especially around the holidays.  I'm of the school that believes if someone else can do the work better than you can, and she *wants* to do it, then you should let her do it.  Thanks, Mia!  

So my role in Thanksgiving Dinner preparation is as sous chef, which is fine with me.  I see myself spending much of tomorrow washing, peeling, chopping and only actually cooking something when everyone else has other stuff to do.

I have been tasked with one dish, however.  Roasted Sweet Potatoes.  Since this will likely be my least favorite dish of the day (I'm more of a savory person, rather than sweet), it's perfect for me.  No temptation to eat half of it before it makes it to my brother's house for dinner.

Check out the recipe, courtesy of Cooks Illustrated:

World’s Biggest Batch of Kimchee

Kimchee

And I thought it was a lot when my mom made a whole crate of napa cabbage!