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Cheese Making Class

Around this time last year, my sister Christina came across a stand at the Union Square Greenmarket.  The stand was from the Valley Shepherd Creamery in
Long Valley, NJ. They sold cheese, and the cheeses were named Califon, Tewksbury, Oldwick and more.  Hey! These are the towns in and around where our parents live!  She tried some cheese.  It was good.  Very good.  Especially the Tewksbury, which is where Mom and Dad live.

Fast forward nearly 12 months, and here we were, paying $150 for the privilege to see how cheese is made, and to make a wheel of it ourselves.

The class is taught by the inimitable Eron Wajswol, an engineer/builder turned farmer/cheesemaker. We got to see some sheep and goats, learn about how cheese is made, visit the aging cave which was blasted into the side of a hill on the120 acre property, and mostly observe the making of a vat of cheese.  We got to participate in the making of our own wheels of cheese at the very end. It was made of mostly cow’s (Jersey and Gurnsey cows) and sheep’s milk.

Here’s what I learned:

1) Sheep don’t produce much milk, but their milk has a higher fat and protein content than cow’s or goat’s milk. I never knew why sheeps milk cheese was my favorite but now I do. Ewes have a short cycle for their milk production (unlike cows or goats, who can produce milk all year round), so you can only get a ewe to produce milk for about half the year.

2) If your’e going to come back as a sheep in your next life, try to be a genetically superior male sheep.  That way, you get to spend most of your days grazing around and a few months a year  in a pen with 30 ewes in heat. If you’re not going to be genetically superior, though, then it’s better to be a girl (assuming you don’t mind being milked by a machine every day and spending a few months a year in a pen, in heat, with 30 girlfriends and one genetically superior ram). Otherwise, you’re going to end up as racks and chops pretty quickly.

3) Cheese making is a tough business, and it involves a lot of ingenuity, from animal husbandry to fancy mechanical devices. I was amazed at how a successful artisanal cheese operation involves combination of technology and hands on work. Much of the cheese making decisions were made by hand and eye (that looks like it’s about 30% whey), but there were also some state-of-the art machines to aid with milking and turning the milk into cheese.

If you’re at all interested in learning about the process of making cheese, this is a fun, easy way to do it. If you want something more hands-on, then this is probably not the best class for you. If you just want to try the cheese, you can check out their new store in SoHo.

Here are some pictures from the class:

Pouring the milk into the vat

The cheese curds in the mold:

Flipping the molded cheese for even compression:

Pressing the cheese to condense it into its final shape:

Finished product, ready for aging (though these are different cheeses from the ones we made):

See more images of the dairy and class here

Hooray for Sam Sifton!

I absolutely adored his review of SD26 today.  I loved the writing, the review of the food, the understanding of the current food zeitgeist, everything. My favorite lines from today’s review:

But it is a hard truth that in Manhattan in 2009 excellent meats from “Italy” are not what people want. Weird but true: They want salumi out of a basement in Greenpoint, made by some kid with tattoos who dropped out of Wesleyan. Local is the new authentic.

Hooray for Sam Sifton!  Read today’s review at nytimes.com

DBGB

IMG_0023

Congratulations to DBGB, which got 2 stars in Sam Sifton’s debut review as food critic for the Times.  I went a few weeks back where I had the bone marrow, pictured above, as well as a sampling of the sausages (thai, vermont, chorizo).  While I thought the place was fun and the food tasty, my friends found that all their food was closer to room temperature than hot.  Still, I’d definitely go back, more likely for drinks and snacks in the spacious bar area than in the dining room.

Weekend at Josh’s

It’s summer in Stanfordville and we’re eating out of Josh’s garden again. Last night we had some of these beautiful lettuces.

Barcelona

I recently took a trip to Barcelona with Jared, Matt, Heather and Ryan.  I took on the responsibility for picking our food options for the trip, and we ate some terrific meals.  I hadn’t really met or spent any time with Matt, Heather or Ryan before, but I was grateful that the are all good, adventurous eaters.  There was no, “I don’t eat [fill in the blank]“, so we happily gorged ourselves on all sorts of Spanish ham, anchovies, sardines and snails, to name just a few things.

My first meal, just with Jared, was at Pinotxo, a local and tourist favorite located in the Boqueria Market off of Las Ramblas.  This is a family run establishment with a charming and entertaining host who wears matching bow ties and vests and makes everyone feel welcome.  Our server was a young guy who spoke very good English.  The food doesn’t appear on a menu but you can see all your options lined up along the bar behind a little glass cover.  I wanted to order everything available, but our guy didn’t let me go too overboard.  He quickly and efficiently dispatched our order to the cooks, who are wedged in immediately behind the bar.  We had  mussels, served cold with a bit of veg on top, ham croquettes, garbanzos cooked with Spanish sausage, shrimp and my favorite of the day, razor clams.  These were just warmed through on the flat top and then finished with a bit of olive oil.  I’m not sure there was even salt and pepper added to them, but they were extremely fresh and tasted like the sea.  Here’s a picture:

razor clams

razor clams

Sadly, the memory card in my camera died on the 2nd to last day of the trip, so I wasn’t able to capture two of the three best meals we ate.  The first was at El Vaso de Oro, a tapas bar for locals located in the Barceloneta neighborhood by the beach.  We walked in and the place was packed to the gills!  It was a little intimidating, but we had been in Barcelona for a few days at that point.  So Matt took charge and placed an order.  Eric had told me about this place before we left and it was one of his must-eat destinations.  I had seen a picture of a bit of steak and green peppers from his photos, and I really wanted to try it.  It was delicious.  Here’s a pic that Matt took:

El Vaso de Oro

The other favorite was Quimet Y Quimet, an old school place that has been serving tapas for five generations.  The walls of this place are lined with bottles of wine, canned goods and vintage posters.  The people behind the bar speak a bit of English, and aren’t the warmest, until you start talking to them about their food.  We had a cheese there that was outrageous.  It was a soft, sheepsmilk cheese that was scooped out of a serving dish with a spoon/spatula, smeared on a slice of bread (there’s no whole wheat anywhere in Spain, by the way, it’s all white bread all the time), and the topped with a couple of chestnuts.  Wow.  I swooned and then bonded with the proprietor over the stuff.  There was also a crazy pate toast with onions and some balsamic that we ate, and then got another of.  Here’s the food porn, again courtesy of Matt:

Quimet Y Quimet

Quimet Y Quimet

Quimet Y Quimet

Quimet Y Quimet

So these were the highlights, but we also had wonderful experiences at Tapioles 53 where we met the Aussie chef/owner and her food writer friends and got great recommendations for other places to eat.  One of those places was Toc, a fancy food place doing modern Catalan cuisine.  Sadly, many of the restaurants we went to were largely empty, a result of the poor economic climate in Spain.  Such was not the case at Inopia, a cool tapas place opened by the brother of Ferran Adria of El Bulli.  We tried and failed to get into this place on no fewer than three occasions!  Alas, I’ll just have to go back to Barcelona to try it another time.

You can see all of my food pics here.

Switching to WordPress

I’ve been meaning to do this for some time now.  Typepad was unwieldy and not free!  So now it’s time for me to go open source with WordPress.  Please bear with me as this blog transitions to something that both looks and functions better.  Stay tuned…

No Reservations in NYC

It's on tonight on the Travel Channel.  Tony visits Russ & Daughters as well several other "old school" places around the city.  Read his blog about it. 

Going to Grand Cayman

After several aborted attempts, Roy and I finally got our acts together to plan a scuba trip to Grand Cayman in March.  It's been 2 years since my last dive, so I'm excited for 3 solid days of diving in arguably the best dive spot in the caribbean.  

The only downside to Cayman is that the food is not good.  I was there back in 2002, and all I can remember about the food was that it was expensive and covered in cream sauces.  Ick.  Am I wrong here?  Is there a hidden gem somewhere on the island I don't know about?  Has some new place opened in the lat 7 years that rivals the cooking on the more foodie islands of st. barts & st. martin?  Please send recommendations!

Heat

Although this book came out years ago, I was reluctant to read it.  I had read the three or four excerpts that had been published in The New Yorker, and this seemed like enough to me.  How wrong I was. I still have about 50 pages left in the book, but I’m blown away by the stories, the details and Buford’s passion for cooking, learning and food.  The pace of my reading has slowed dowm, I think because I don’t want it to end.

Restaurant Revisits

I hear that the restaurant business is slowing down in NYC, and while I believe it must be true, I have yet to see it in action.  In the past week or two, I've gone back to revisit a few places, and all were busy and seemed to be doing fine.  Here's a brief summary:

Del Posto.  I ate for the first time in the Enoteca, which offers a $52, three-course tasting menu.  The highlight of the meal was the Handmade Orecchiette with Lamb Neck Sausage, Carrots & Caraway.  The pasta was the prefect vehicle for the ground meat, and the dish was rich but not heavy.  Memorable.  While the experience is not as special as in the main dining room, the service was just as gracious.  By 7:00, the bar was full and hopping.

Bellavitae.  The last time I went here, I found my pasta little gummy, and I thought the quality had degraded.  I went back and found the quality to be back up to par.  Every dish was great, but my favorite is the gnoccho fritto, fried squares of bread, served with slices of prosciutto.  On a Saturday evening at 9:00, it was a completely full.  

Market Table.  I was surprised to see that Bruni gave this place two stars, and then PPP tried and had a positive report.  So I decided to give them another chance, after my terrible experience there the first time around (almost a year ago to the day).  The service was friendly to the extreme (what a contrast!), and the food was actually well-seasoned!  I started with an endive salad with toasted pecans and blue cheese.  It had great flavor and crunch, a great way to start the meal.  I moved on to a filet of arctic char, served over some creamed leeks.  The veg was a little salty, but the char was well cooked.  In general, I enjoyed the meal, and I'll certainly go back to it now.  Although I was able to get a reservation the same day, in fact only a couple of hours before, the place was full on a Tuesday evening at 9:00.

Matsugen.  I went to try the $35 menu.  This may be the best value in all of NYC right now.  Three courses, seven dishes, and really wonderful flavors.  My favorite dishes were the miso soup, which came with a big hunk of very fresh, soft tofu, and the soba, which I got with hot broth and a few slices of duck breast.  Friday night, the place was busy but not packed.  I'm not sure if this was different from the last time I went, although that was on a Sunday night.