I absolutely adored his review of SD26 today. I loved the writing, the review of the food, the understanding of the current food zeitgeist, everything. My favorite lines from today’s review:
But it is a hard truth that in Manhattan in 2009 excellent meats from “Italy” are not what people want. Weird but true: They want salumi out of a basement in Greenpoint, made by some kid with tattoos who dropped out of Wesleyan. Local is the new authentic.
Hooray for Sam Sifton! Read today’s review at nytimes.com
Advertisement
